The history of arts and crafts is as old as the history of mankind. It is also intimately linked to the work of the artisan jeweler, for since time immemorial, wearing a piece of jewelry has had an important meaning within a community. It could be a sign of power, seduction, belonging to a group... Over time, techniques were refined and tools perfected, leading to the goldsmith's work we know today, producing unique pieces of exceptional beauty and quality. At the same time, industrialization and robotization have enabled the production of mass-produced pieces, without ever rivaling the work of the artisan jeweler.

 

 The different jewelry trades

 

In prehistoric times, it was assumed that only one person was involved in creating a piece of jewelry. Over the centuries, technical evolution has given rise to new trades. Today, every craftsman is involved in the design of a piece of jewelry, each contributing his or her own know-how and personal sensibility.  

 

 The artisan jeweler, the jewel's master craftsman

 

The artisan jeweler acts as a master craftsman, working in close collaboration with each craftsman. He is dedicated to shaping precious metals, particularly gold, platinum and silver. He can design his own creations or work for a company that provides him with sketches or more or less precise drawings. He may also take inspiration from an existing model.

The jeweler's scope for creativity depends on his partnership with the company he works for. If he is independent, he becomes his own master builder and is totally free to make his own choices. The talent of this craftsman is fundamental to the creation of exceptional jewelry. Precise, skillful and meticulous, he must also demonstrate great inventiveness to fashion an original piece of jewelry.  

Each piece of finished jewelry produced by a jeweler remains unique, even if it is reproduced in small series. This is because each craftsman expresses the particularity of his raw materials and custom work.

 

Jewelry-making techniques

 

The artisan jeweler shapes precious metals supplied in wire, tube, plate or shot form. He is also a connoisseur of precious stones. To work precious metals, the jeweler uses a variety of techniques, including sawing, wire mining, soldering, milling, forging, grinding, sanding and polishing. It is also essential for an artisan jeweler to be familiar with rhodium-plating, which involves dipping the finished piece in a gold bath 5-micron liquid, to add shine or simply change the basic color of the part.  

 

 The foundryman

 

The foundryman is responsible for creating a mold - usually in silicone, resin or rubber - to cast the precious metal, which may be used to produce a limited series. He masters a wide range of casting techniques: lost wax, sand, hot, cold stamping, etc. They use high-temperature melting equipment. 

 

The gemmologist

 

An expert in precious stones, the gemmologist selects the stones that will adorn a piece of jewelry. His technical training enables him to identify exceptional pieces. His knowledge is indispensable for choosing the most beautiful diamonds, according to their purity, color, cut, weight, proportions, etc.

The gemologist is also the guarantor of a stone's authenticity.

 

 The stonecutter

 The stone cutter is also known as the lapidary. Their job is to transform a rough stone into a jewel, a task requiring skill, delicacy, knowledge of form and proportion, artistic flair and, of course, the highest level of craftsmanship.

 

 The diamond cutter

 Diamond cutting is a profession in its own right. He works in collaboration with other gem specialists to ensure that the stone he cuts is ideal for sublimating the light that will make it shine. The diamond cutter demonstrates exceptional meticulousness and precision. His knowledge of crystallography is extensive. Naturally, his sense of responsibility is immense, as he handles only the most precious stones.

  

 Diamond cutting

 The rough diamond is marked with India ink to identify the cleavage and sawing points. These two operations are then carried out by a craftsman specialized in this technique. Another craftsman then refines the stone's shape. Finally, the diamond cutter intervenes to obtain a stone of incomparable beauty and facet the diamond.

Each step of the pruning process is crucial. To begin with, the aim is to lose as little raw material as possible. Next, a great deal of knowledge is required to grasp the raw stone and apply the appropriate cut. The sawing and cleaving operations generate different cutting directions, with facets that are more or less easy to work with.

The cutter also applies mathematical constraints to achieve the perfect symmetry that will enhance the diamond's brilliance, thanks to the reflection of light.

 

 Diamond cutting for mass-produced jewelry

 Manufacturers of mass-produced jewelry offer diamonds whose cutting is partly automated and managed by cutters with limited knowledge.

Laser cutting is computer-controlled and supervised by an operator aiming for a predetermined shape. He does not take into account details that only an artisan diamond cutter is capable of apprehending. The result is quite respectable, but falls short of the quality of a stone cut for a jeweler's piece, which requires hand-cutting.

 

The crimper

 Setting stones is an essential part of the jeweler's job. It involves setting the stone or stones into the precious metal of the jewel. The stone setter knows the different types of settings: rail, closed, claw and grain settings. He uses a wide range of tools, depending on the nature of the metal and the stones (hammer, scoop, burin, tweezers, etc.). He starts by setting the stone, then uses a precision tool to make small balls all around the stone, which will serve to fix the stone in the metal.  Sometimes, when there's only one central stone, claws are welded on and elegantly folded over the stone.

The gem-setter's craft requires exceptional dexterity, coupled with solid know-how. Naturally, the stone must not be damaged during the operation, and the setting must be as strong as possible for a long time to come.

 

 The polisher

 It's the polisher's turn to bring the final shine to the jewel. He cleans, sands, scrapes, polishes and brightens precious metals. He can also apply patinating or matting treatments, depending on the desired finish.

In addition to specialized tools, the polisher uses chemicals that must then be completely eradicated. He must therefore be familiar with the properties of precious stones to avoid the risk of chemical damage.

The polisher is responsible for the final appearance of the jewel, which requires great attention to detail.  

 

 The engraver

 

The artisan jeweler who makes one-off pieces or small series often responds to requests for inscriptions. He entrusts them to the engraver, who masters this work: initials, monograms, coats of arms, maxims, various ornaments, etc.

For a long time, engraving was done freehand with a chisel. Today, laser engraving is the preferred method. However, in the case of handcrafted creations, the machine is not automated, but controlled by the engraver.

All that remains is to strike the jewel with a small hammer to affix the hallmark, an official, state-mandated mark on a precious metal to confirm its authenticity.

The incomparable value of the craftsman's work

 The artisan jeweler oversees the entire production chain, which requires colossal knowledge of rare specificities. Everyone involved is a craftsman, mastering his or her field to perfection.

As you can see, the design of a piece of jewelry by an artisan jeweler requires an initial investment in precious stones and metals, and then a great deal of time and expertise before the finished piece is achieved. The value of each person's work is high. Logically, the budget is higher than if you were to buy mass-produced, industrial jewelry.

 

The uniqueness and authenticity of each jewel

Handcrafted by skilled artisans, handmade jewelry has an originality you won't find anywhere else, and certainly not in mass-produced jewelry.

 

 The exceptional quality of the jewel created by the artisan jeweler

 

The exceptional quality of a piece of jewelry created by an artisan jeweler lies in the rigorous attention paid to every stage of its creation:

• Design by leading artists ;
• Selection of pure and approved precious metals;
• Choice of the finest gemstones;
• Each craftsman is highly specialized in his field;
• Rigorous finishing to guarantee the excellence of the jewel, but also its durability.

 

It goes without saying that mass-produced or even industrial jewelry is not made with the same care. This is detrimental to beauty and strength, and systematically results in inferior quality.

 

 The undisputed value of handcrafted jewelry

The acquisition of handcrafted jewelry is often linked to a significant life event (anniversary, engagement, wedding, etc.), which gives it considerable emotional value. What's more, since quality guarantees longevity, such jewelry is destined to be handed down from generation to generation, adding to its sentimental value.

The word artisanal is sometimes misunderstood. We're talking here about a piece created on demand to very precise specifications. It can take weeks, even months, for a craftsman to create a unique piece of jewelry. Depending on the quantity and quality of the gemstones used, the cost of the piece can be considerable.

Industrial jewelry, on the other hand, lacks this emotional dimension. Mass-produced, it becomes interchangeable, depriving it of any emotional charge.

In conclusion, wearing jewelry made by the creative soul of an artisan jeweler amply justifies the cost of his creations. In collaboration with other craftsmen, he is the only one able to promise you a unique piece of jewelry of priceless emotional value, which will remain in your family for generations.